Day 16: Nydri to Meteora

Having changed our travel plans to spend another day at Lefkada, we had committed to skipping the Peloponnese area to the south. The few days in the sun and salt had been a bit tiring, and Gerle was keen to try somewhere a little cooler and skip the beach for the next few days. 

This, in combination with the advice to export the car from the EU from Bulgaria to Turkey and not Greece to Turkey, lead us to decide to skip the eastern coast of northern Greece, and head toward Bulgaria earlier. En route we would still stop as originally planned in Meteora, which would now be our destination for the evening, rather than in another day or two time.

First though, we had seen a sign on the way into Nydri the day previous for some waterfalls, which we now knew the history of in relation to the island of Spartochori. Figuring it wasn't much of a detour, after breakfast of fruit and yogurt in our guest-house, we headed here first. It had warmed up quickly, and the steep ascent put Gerle off, and she decided to remain in the shade down below whilst I walked up to see what was there. As it was early, there were few other tourists, and walking through the surprisingly dense and lush forest was quite pleasant. Despite the heat, there was a enough breeze and shade to keep things comfortable.

Beside the walking track was a small canal that was guiding water for collection to the edge of the forest and beyond. Perhaps this as also used in local agricultural irrigation, but it's primary purpose might once have been of the water collection for Spartochori and other locations. The main stream was only slightly more than a trickle, but there were pools of cool, clear water along the track harbouring many different frogs. 

Arriving at the waterfall, it as more than what I was expecting. Though not a torrent of water cascading, it was quite a drop, and very picturesque against the green forest, yellow brown rock and blue sky. The photos don't do it justice without ability to counter the high dynamic range. Not hanging around too long, I was back down to the car quickly and ready to go.

The forest covering the majority of Lefkada.

Walking toward the waterfall.

The waterfall...

Not quite the waterfall I'd come to see, this one is just a trickle.

Thankful he wasn't born in France.

This was the waterfall I'd come to see.

Clean water; no wonder the people came from Spartachori to collect it.

For a sense of scale.

The drive toward Meteora doubled back on some of the drive from Igoumenitsa, but not too much. Again it was really surprising to see that all of the infrastructure was in place, but mostly the toll booths were unmanned. Three lanes in either direction seemed about 1000% overkill for the level of traffic on the road also. 

After going past where we had travelled previously, the Autostrada climbed steadily and we reached about 1500m above sea level, passing through several long tunnels to achieve this. Once at this altitude we were up and down on smaller roads off the Autostrada, between 1000m and 1500m, twisting and turning through Greek farmlands. 

Getting closer to Meteora there was a distinct change from grain crops and livestock to much more in the way of vegetable and fruit growing. Road side stalls sprang up everywhere selling local stone fruit, melons, grapes and a variety of home made preserves. 

Reaching Meteora, we walked around town to get our bearings, not really wanting to go up hiking amongst the Monasteries until things cooled down at little. We had lunch in a shady cafe, after which we searched for an internet cafe, and upon finding one that was very comfortable decided to wait out the heat whilst Facebooking, Blogging and catching up on e-mails and banking. It was worth the wait, as upon leaving the temperature had dropped quite a few degrees.

Heading up the slope, and not really knowing what to expect, we parked the car at the first monastery that we saw. Walking up the steep steps, we reached the gate only to see that it was now closed to the public (after 6pm) and that we wouldn't have been allowed in anyway - we needed to be wearing long sleeves and long trousers. Not a chance!

Anyway, the path continued beyond this monastery and we continued up the slow amongst the trees. Nearing the summit of the hill, we realised that we could have driven to here... Gerle was defiant, but inside I knew that we wasn't that happy to have walked to here. Things improved when at the summit we saw the first plum tree with ripe fruit for our own picking. A short break here, and we were refreshed ready to head out into the sun again and onto the precipice. 

The view was superb. Towering columns of rock above lush green forest. Monasteries above, below and on the horizon, farmland and town interspersed below. It was a little hazy, and we were looking into the sun, but it as still stunning. We explored about the top of the precipice for a while, amongst other tourists arriving by bus, before deciding to walk back down to the car and go and find some camping before dark. 

One of the monasteries of Meteora, we wouldn't have been allowed inside as we weren't dressed conservatively enough but it was far too hot and humid for long sleeves and trousers!

Another monastery of Meteroa, perched about the previous.

The first monastery above, but from higher up.

Why would you choose to build a monastery atop one of these? Madness!

Suitably kitted out for hiking.

Hiding in the shade.

Township of Meteora far below, the majority hidden behind the rock (right).

Fooling around up top... Gerle not so impressed.

Looking west over the monastery and where we would subsequently find our campsite.

Hehe... A great view... thanks Gerle... xoxo

If these monks brewed beer or something similar, it would have been good here!

We needed have left so early, perhaps distracted by the rock formations and the monasteries whilst driving up, we hadn't noticed the campsite near to the bottom of the ascent. In no time, we were setup, into the pool, and thrilled to escape the heat. Gerle is turning into a mermaid, loving the water she once previously feared.

Having cooled off, showered and hungry, we set off looking for food. Across the road from the campsite / motel, were two old men cooking sausage and shish kebab on an open wood fire. Not realising that they were somehow related to the camping establishment, we wandered over and were immediately offered to try both meats. Yummy. The older of the two men was hilarious, not sure whether he was drunk or just happy, singing and talking to himself whilst cooking away. 

Whilst we ate dinner, the sun sank completely. The rock formations transformed through different hues of yellow, pink, orange and red before fading slowly into the night. In the time it took to return to the camp to get a camera, it was all but gone.

In the end we sat down, whilst we were brought bread, salad, beer and then more sausage and lamb, both dripping with tasty goodness. Eating our fill, our hosts continued to bring more to the table, before finishing off with fresh honey dew melon and watermelon. An old lady came to collect money from us, having to consult with the chefs when we asked how much it should be. No menu, no fixed prices. We agreed, conditionally on two extra take-away beers, and left for the camp full and content.

Sheer walls lit up by the sinking sun.

Our campsite, beneath the escarpment.

As the sun set, the colours reddened. 

Not stoned... just stuffed full of watermelon. 

Day 15: Vasiliki to Nydri

Convinced by the beauty of Lefkada to extend our stay one extra night, we woke early on our final day to head across the island to another small village from which day cruises departed. We were to board a boat called the Odeyssia for a day sailing around the islands of Meganisi and Scorpios, far smaller than Lefkada itself.

Leaving Vasiliki at about 7am, we slowly wound out way up and over the hills on Lefkada before descending along a twisting and turning coastal road into Vasiliki. Given it was the early morning, the only traffic on the road was local farmers who were pretty surprised to come across us. Arriving in Nydri, we were able to find the place we would be staying that night fairly quickly. 

Parking the car, we then headed along the harbour side to find our boat and then find some breakfast. The boat stands out from the crowd, and was easy to spot. Breakfast was just across the road in an open air cafe. At 9am, it was already hot and humid. Gerle satisfied a craving for bacon and egg, whilst I tried some 'traditional' Greek yoghurt with fruit and honey. Sounds like a role reversal, but we were both pleased with our choices. In Australia, my exposure to Greek yoghurt would be considered limited, but what I was served definitely scored 11 out of 10 compared to what I had. I was expecting something sour and rather liquid, what came out was firm and whilst not sweet was nice and creamy. 

Heading over to the boat, it was clear from the onset that it was going to be a good day. The crew were warm and energetic without being over the top, and there was a good mix of other passengers with a few Greek Australians, some Italians and Czechs including families and younger travellers. 

Cruise-boating is difficult work.

We headed out of Vasiliki on near glassy water, the area being sheltered most of the time from any waves making it an ideal place to learn boating. The crew mentioned quite a few times in the day that it has only been recently that any sort of training be formally available for local people, and that most of the local cruise operators were under foreign captaincy. 

Our first destination was a sea cave (grotto) where we were able to have a swim. Gerle wasn't too keen on getting into the deep water straight out of the boat, but took quite a few photos from onboard. The water felt pretty cool in the early morning shadow, but was still refreshing. It was clearer than the previous day, with the fish, rocks and vegetation easily discernible on the sea floor in the cave without much direct light. Nothing too exciting under the water, but plenty of fish. 

Inside the sea cave were two goats. The didn't appear to be stranded, but it was a hard to figure out how they got there. Good rock hoppers no doubt, but not sure how they would have managed the overhangs on each approach angle. Perhaps at lower tide other options existed. 

Heading out to our first destination, a sea cave.

From whence we came.

Into the sea cave.

Right into the sea cave.

Geronimo!

Happy tourists swimming in the sea cave.

Goats... in the sea cave... wtf?

Good grazing...

Moby at play.

Grrr.... so sexy....

Back onboard and heading toward Meganisi Island, the captain was keen to get people moving in traditional Greek dance. His enthusiasm and energetic demonstration soon had the Greek Australians partaking in the dance, initially with chagrin but soon with some embellishment. It was pretty funny and good entertainment. 

After the dancing, the first mate provided some detailed commentary regarding the history of the region, in particular with regard to the influence of Aristotle Onassis and his family. Money does funny things to people; he seemed like a pretty straight forward no nonsense kind of guy, but his kids and grandkids have screwed up a lot of what he provided. 

The captain leading from the front with the Greek traditional dancing onboard.

Had Aristotle wanted otherwise, Meganisi could have been very different and developed similarly to Lefkada (almost overrun with tourists). Instead, he was keen to maintain some of the traditional life and sought to provide for the island, but on some conditions that the development underway elsewhere wasn't brought here. Hence, few tourists visit. We got a chance to wander through the village (after climbing quite a hill from the harbour), which for the most part was absent of tourist activity. 

Development here was so slow, that until 1984 I think it was said, that people would still boat water to the island from a waterfall behind the township of Nydri. The ladies of the village would then walk it up the hill multiple times every day. Fit and muscular they must have been!

Panoramic view of the harbour at Spartochori, on Meganisi Island.

Our boat for the day, the Oydessia, moored in Spartochori

The traditional narrow streets of Spartochori, almost unmodernised. 

Taking in the view.

After leaving Spartochori, we headed to a sheltered beach on Meganisi for a BBQ lunch and a swim. The lunch was tasty, with lamb shish kebabs, typical salad, white cheese and local wines. Sitting under the beachside umbrellas to fend off the heat and the sunshine, we enjoyed lunch before going for a swim. Slightly calmer than the day previous, Gerle was much more interested to get into the water. Having not swum in the sea cave, and now after the hot weather and walk up to the village of Spartochori she was keen to get in. 

Swimming lessons progressed well, with the aid of a flotation vest. The calm water and not too rocky seabed made things a bit easier. She did well, but there are more lessons still to come. The necessary confidence is almost there to break loose of the imaginary shackles.

What, Gerle is swimming already?

Almost. Floatation made easy!

Swimming beside the Odeyssia.

Greek beaches. Sensational!

On the way back to Nydri, the winds were right to hoist the sail. With the motor cut, the peace and quite of the breeze was beautiful. Just enough, that after pushing us along there was still a little puff to keep the temperature down. 

It's a difficult life for some.

Under sail back into Nydri.

The sail of the Odyssia.

Back in the harbour, the heat haze above the buildings as we docked was a prelude to the sauna emanating from the bitumen. We high tailed it to the guesthouse, and were pretty happy to shower and relax for an hour inside the air conditioning before heading to dinner... which happened to be right next door. We were feeling lazy, and having surmised all the fare available along the waterfront in the morning, it looked as good a choice as any. Plus, it was offering Greek food, not Italian, Chinese, English, Mexican, etc. that the others were touting. 

After a seafood and bread with dip entree, we moved onto meat for a change from the previous seafood dinners. Lamb and chicken shish kebabs. Too easy over a few beers and bottle of wine. The day of sun had us weary, and we turned in after dark.

Panoramic view from our guesthouse. 

Pre dinner drinks at the harbour.

Days 13 to 14: Igoumenitsa to Vasiliki

Igoumenitsa to Vasiliki

After a fairly ordinary night's sleep onboard the ferry, and regretting either (i) not booking sleeper cabin earlier, or (ii) not forking out for the 'aircraft seats' which we didn't use, we were woken by the speaker system announcing in multiple languages that we would be arriving in Igoumenitsa shortly. 

Devoid of the energy the we had when departing, we didn't bother with heading to the open deck to view our progress into the harbour, preferring to try and catch a few more minutes sleep. Woken again by the public announcer, it was time for vehicle drivers to head down to the vehicles in preparation for off boarding. This time, Gerle snuck past and we both headed to the vehicle, which due to the extra height of the roof top tent and tyre atop it was parked rather conveniently for exit on one of the higher car decks. 

Within about 15 minutes, we were off the ship, and headed toward Vasiliki, a small village at the southern tip of the island of Lefkada. It is an island, but joined to the Greek mainland via a short bridge that opens for nautical traffic. 

With the GPS programmed, we were off. Researching the journey previously on Google Earth, I wanted to get off the Autostrada once we were about half way there, so that we could follow more closely to the coast and amongst the Greek countryside. This I enjoyed, as a good way to remain awake while Gerle as counting sheep in the front passenger seat. 

The Autostrada wound up and down over some quite mountainous terrain, and passed through several long tunnels. The scenery was stunning in the early dawn light, with the golden rays casting a full palette of colours across the valleys and mountainsides. 

It seemed strange that a country in such financial crisis wasn't really seeming to make much of an effort in generation revenue; though much of the Autostrada was completed, items that weren't included most of the toll collection booths, and that where tolls were being collected they seemed far too small in comparison to those experienced in Italy. 

The roads were also noticeably absent of traffic, even for the early morning, and this was also the case in future travel in Greece. Truck traffic was the main contingent on the road, with many trucks en route from western and central Europe south or east through to Turkey. Without a vignette system like other European states, and with minimal road tolls payable, I hope that there is some revenue collection from these transit users. 

Once about an hour south of Igoumenitsa I reprogrammed the GPS to avoid toll roads, which soon guided us off the Autostrada and west toward the coast. For the next two hours travelling on secondary roads we descended from the mountains, passed through hilly farmland before the road opened onto the bluest of blue seas. The road then hugged the coastline, winding in and out of the cliff top points and hollows along the coast. We slowed noticeably, and the next 50 kilometres took over an hour to complete. 

Tiring, we decided to take a break from driving and have breakfast somewhere prior to arrival. We passed through a few small villages, but then Gerle fell back to sleep. Stubborn as  I am, I continued to drive figuring that it was only another 50 km of so until Lefkada by the road signs. There was still another 30 km or so beyond that to Vasiliki, but the idea of making it to Lefkada for breakfast took hold. Approaching the bridge to the island, Gerle woke up with the change in driving style. The first town across the bridge was quite busy, so we pushed on again looking for something a little quieter where finding a park and a table would not be a challenge. 

After passing through another couple of small villages without luck in spotting anything that looked decent, we were lucky to come across the 'Panoramic Cafe'. Panoramic was an understatement. Stopping, we wandered in to the empty restaurant / cafe, worried that breakfast might not be on offer. We needn't have worried, as soon as we were announced, the staff sprung into action. Five minutes later we had cafe freddos and omelettes in front of us, and were connected to the free and surprisingly fast Wi-Fi. 

Given that it was still quite early, about 11am, and that there was only about another 30 minutes of driving to do, we figured that we'd sit and make use of the free Wi-Fi for a while enjoying the warm weather, cool shade and fresh breeze over a few OJ's so that we could arrive to check-in to the guesthouse in Vasiliki at a more appropriate time. About two hours later, we were done, and back on the road again.

The panoramic view over which we had a late breakfast.

Me, tired but happy to be where we were!

Gerle, bright and cheerful in comparison, having slept in the car for the previous 3 hours!

Arriving into Vasiliki we weren't exactly 100% sure where the guesthouse was. We had a rough idea, but failed to see any signage on approaches from both directions the first time. A bit of lapping about town, and we were about to park up and then search on foot when we spotted a small sign leading us to where we needed to be. For those interested, the place that we stayed was called Villa Angela. 

The owner wasn't present, but her father checked us in and in a couple of minutes we had our luggage in the room and were gladly freshening up with a cold shower and change of clothes. Given the poor sleep the night previous, we then relaxed in the room and had a nap, before emerging around 5pm to head down to the beach for a swim.

Town beach was a mixture of sand and pebbles, but the water was clear and the sea was extremely calm. Gerle resumed her swimming lessons, and almost mastered the art of floating. Salt water was and is still not agreeing with her, so after a short while she was sitting on the beach whilst I continued to fool about in the water. Beautifully warm, cleansing saltiness and a very gently dipping beach encouraged me to do some real swimming rather than just paddling about as one usually does at the beach. After a few hundred metres back and forth, I'd done some exercise for the day and felt immensely refreshed. 

Returning briefly to the quest house, we showed and got ready for dinner. Heading toward the harbour, we browsed through some of the local shops, and spoke to some tour companies about what options existed tomorrow to see some of the islands an beaches. After weighing up our options, we decided to stay an extra day than planned on Lefkada and take two boat cruises the next and following days. The first was a shorter one, to some isolated beaches, and the second which departed from Nydri, not Vasiliki, was longer taking in some of the more famous islands such as Scorpios and Meganisi of Greek shipping tycoon Aristotle Onassis fame.

With our plans made, we then walked down to the harbour to find somewhere to eat. Walking both directions along the promenade, one restaurant stood out from the crowd in terms of value. All options were (over)priced similarly, collusion perhaps, but this one was situated at the far end of the harbour with uninterrupted views into the Ionian Sea. The view and starters were magnificent, but the mains left a little to be desired.... frozen vegetables in such a place, with a bounty of fresh harvest all around, was a bit disappointing. Anyway, I guess we paid for the view and not the feed.

Still tired from the previous night, we retired after our carafe of wine back to the guesthouse where we were quickly asleep, excited about getting out on the water the next day.

On the promenade at Vasiliki harbour looking for somewhere to have dinner.

Port side restaurant that we settled on.

Some days are hard to take...

The sun sank down and the moon rose up whilst we ate.

Boating and beaching

Sleeping in the next day, we again walked down to the harbour. Stopping to get a few essentials for the beach, including food, drinks, sunscreen and umbrellas from a local tourist shop, we then continued down to where the restaurants were the previous night to spot the boat we were to board, and also to find somewhere for breakfast. 

Sitting down in the first cafe, it became apparent that there was not a lot of choice for food, but rather only drinks. Hungry, we ordered 'toast' from the menu and were a little surprised when only two slices of chocolate cake came out. Eating this, we moved on, not realising that what we had ordered was still to come. After having eggs on toast at another nearby cafe, we returned to board our boat that was adjacent to the first place we tried to eat, only to be bailed up by the staff who wanted to know if we still wanted what we ordered.... turns out that 'toast' was 'toasted sandwiches', and that they were delicious. 

The boat was not overly big, but luckily it only seemed about half full with passengers. It departed at the scheduled time, and for the next hour we moved swiftly out of the harbour, around the south western tip of Lefkada and along the coast toward our beach destination. It all started as fun and games for Gerle, but the last 30 minutes were not quite so pleasant battling some sea sickness... a little surprising given how flat the water was. 

Heading out of the harbour into the Ionian Sea

Another Titanic moment!

Rounding the southern tip of the island of Lefkada

A Superfast ferry, similar to that which we travelled on,  in the distance.

On approach to the beach.

Arriving at the beach, the boat nudged onto the sand and we disembarked, again onto a pebbly rather than sandy beach. Again, it looked so good from afar, but on arrival proved a little uncomfortable to walk on. Perhaps now I realise why the beaches in Europe have private areas where you pay to sit on sun lounges, which we now chose to do. The water here was even better than the town beach, an even brighter blue and with incredibly clarity. One of the boat hands who I spoke to was actually bemoaning the lack of visibility in the water for the sake of his spear fishing, but I figured it wasn't too bad when I could clearly define the sea grasses and fish 15 to 20 metres below the boat!

For the next few hours, we both alternated between sitting on the sun lounges in the shade of the large umbrellas overhead and cooling down in the water. The beach dipped away a little more sharply than the other places that we had visited, and with waves breaking right on the beach, Gerle was a little uncomfortable going more than knee deep in the water. Though I swam out about the boat, which had gone out after dropping its passengers off, she was content sitting and laying on the pebbles where the white water would rush up to cool her down.

Our boat from the beach.

Loving the clean, salty water. 

A little cautious with waves breaking on the shore.

After about three hours spent between sand and sea, picking over fresh fruits for lunch in-between, we boarded the boat again and set off for another beach contained within a well sheltered cove. Gerle was excited at the prospect of a calmer beach, so it was disappointing to find that this beach was too crowded with other tour operators for our boat to come ashore. 

Instead, the anchor was dropped a little way out into the ocean, and people were able to swim about the boat. We toyed with the idea of Gerle using a life saving ring for flotation, but she wasn't too keen on the idea (and who would be when you're in water deeper than you can stand in, and can't swim). The crew were kind and encouraging, but a deep rooted fear is hard to overcome. Clinging to the boarding ladder, she was able to get wet and cool off whilst I had a swim with the other passengers.

Later in the afternoon, swimming about the boat anchored in a small cove.

About an hour later, we were headed for home. The seas had come up a bit (all of 1 to 1.5m swell), and a few passengers were getting a bit seasick. Gerle powered through and I wasn't affected. After about an hour motoring, we we safely back in Vasiliki harbour.

The cliffs surrounding much of the island of Lefkada on the way back to Vasiliki.

Heading into the harbour, the morning mist having lifted.

We quickly walked home to wash of the remains of copious amounts of sunscreen applied throughout the day, and freshen up for dinner. On the way back into town we stopped for a cocktail where we saw free Wi-Fi being advertised. Surprisingly good drinks, and decent internet held our attention for about an hour before we set off again hungry for dinner.

Some cocktails on the way back into town after having showered and changed.

Again, we paraded through the various offerings by the dozen or so harbour side restaurants plying for business. The front of house staff were quite entertaining hawking for business, and after being amused more than once by the same guy in front of the restaurant run by the same company as our day's tour operator, and a tour of the kitchen to see the freshness of the seafood, we sat down looking forward to a traditional meal, prepared in the local Greek fashion. 

We weren't disappointed at all, with the meal far surpassing that of the night before in terms of quality. Sharing a large red snapper, grilled whole to perfection and then expertly deboned, it was accompanied by a hot, fresh, green, leafy vegetable similar to silver beet or spinach, drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice. Fresh and tasty!

Fish and greens, Greek style. Me, a little red from the sun.

The venue was harbour side again.

Thoroughly satisfied with the days activity, tummies full and a little tipsy from the wine amidst the affects of a full day in the sun, we returned to the guesthouse ready to depart early the next day to go on another sailing adventure from the harbour of Nydri.