Day 15: Vasiliki to Nydri

Convinced by the beauty of Lefkada to extend our stay one extra night, we woke early on our final day to head across the island to another small village from which day cruises departed. We were to board a boat called the Odeyssia for a day sailing around the islands of Meganisi and Scorpios, far smaller than Lefkada itself.

Leaving Vasiliki at about 7am, we slowly wound out way up and over the hills on Lefkada before descending along a twisting and turning coastal road into Vasiliki. Given it was the early morning, the only traffic on the road was local farmers who were pretty surprised to come across us. Arriving in Nydri, we were able to find the place we would be staying that night fairly quickly. 

Parking the car, we then headed along the harbour side to find our boat and then find some breakfast. The boat stands out from the crowd, and was easy to spot. Breakfast was just across the road in an open air cafe. At 9am, it was already hot and humid. Gerle satisfied a craving for bacon and egg, whilst I tried some 'traditional' Greek yoghurt with fruit and honey. Sounds like a role reversal, but we were both pleased with our choices. In Australia, my exposure to Greek yoghurt would be considered limited, but what I was served definitely scored 11 out of 10 compared to what I had. I was expecting something sour and rather liquid, what came out was firm and whilst not sweet was nice and creamy. 

Heading over to the boat, it was clear from the onset that it was going to be a good day. The crew were warm and energetic without being over the top, and there was a good mix of other passengers with a few Greek Australians, some Italians and Czechs including families and younger travellers. 

Cruise-boating is difficult work.

We headed out of Vasiliki on near glassy water, the area being sheltered most of the time from any waves making it an ideal place to learn boating. The crew mentioned quite a few times in the day that it has only been recently that any sort of training be formally available for local people, and that most of the local cruise operators were under foreign captaincy. 

Our first destination was a sea cave (grotto) where we were able to have a swim. Gerle wasn't too keen on getting into the deep water straight out of the boat, but took quite a few photos from onboard. The water felt pretty cool in the early morning shadow, but was still refreshing. It was clearer than the previous day, with the fish, rocks and vegetation easily discernible on the sea floor in the cave without much direct light. Nothing too exciting under the water, but plenty of fish. 

Inside the sea cave were two goats. The didn't appear to be stranded, but it was a hard to figure out how they got there. Good rock hoppers no doubt, but not sure how they would have managed the overhangs on each approach angle. Perhaps at lower tide other options existed. 

Heading out to our first destination, a sea cave.

From whence we came.

Into the sea cave.

Right into the sea cave.

Geronimo!

Happy tourists swimming in the sea cave.

Goats... in the sea cave... wtf?

Good grazing...

Moby at play.

Grrr.... so sexy....

Back onboard and heading toward Meganisi Island, the captain was keen to get people moving in traditional Greek dance. His enthusiasm and energetic demonstration soon had the Greek Australians partaking in the dance, initially with chagrin but soon with some embellishment. It was pretty funny and good entertainment. 

After the dancing, the first mate provided some detailed commentary regarding the history of the region, in particular with regard to the influence of Aristotle Onassis and his family. Money does funny things to people; he seemed like a pretty straight forward no nonsense kind of guy, but his kids and grandkids have screwed up a lot of what he provided. 

The captain leading from the front with the Greek traditional dancing onboard.

Had Aristotle wanted otherwise, Meganisi could have been very different and developed similarly to Lefkada (almost overrun with tourists). Instead, he was keen to maintain some of the traditional life and sought to provide for the island, but on some conditions that the development underway elsewhere wasn't brought here. Hence, few tourists visit. We got a chance to wander through the village (after climbing quite a hill from the harbour), which for the most part was absent of tourist activity. 

Development here was so slow, that until 1984 I think it was said, that people would still boat water to the island from a waterfall behind the township of Nydri. The ladies of the village would then walk it up the hill multiple times every day. Fit and muscular they must have been!

Panoramic view of the harbour at Spartochori, on Meganisi Island.

Our boat for the day, the Oydessia, moored in Spartochori

The traditional narrow streets of Spartochori, almost unmodernised. 

Taking in the view.

After leaving Spartochori, we headed to a sheltered beach on Meganisi for a BBQ lunch and a swim. The lunch was tasty, with lamb shish kebabs, typical salad, white cheese and local wines. Sitting under the beachside umbrellas to fend off the heat and the sunshine, we enjoyed lunch before going for a swim. Slightly calmer than the day previous, Gerle was much more interested to get into the water. Having not swum in the sea cave, and now after the hot weather and walk up to the village of Spartochori she was keen to get in. 

Swimming lessons progressed well, with the aid of a flotation vest. The calm water and not too rocky seabed made things a bit easier. She did well, but there are more lessons still to come. The necessary confidence is almost there to break loose of the imaginary shackles.

What, Gerle is swimming already?

Almost. Floatation made easy!

Swimming beside the Odeyssia.

Greek beaches. Sensational!

On the way back to Nydri, the winds were right to hoist the sail. With the motor cut, the peace and quite of the breeze was beautiful. Just enough, that after pushing us along there was still a little puff to keep the temperature down. 

It's a difficult life for some.

Under sail back into Nydri.

The sail of the Odyssia.

Back in the harbour, the heat haze above the buildings as we docked was a prelude to the sauna emanating from the bitumen. We high tailed it to the guesthouse, and were pretty happy to shower and relax for an hour inside the air conditioning before heading to dinner... which happened to be right next door. We were feeling lazy, and having surmised all the fare available along the waterfront in the morning, it looked as good a choice as any. Plus, it was offering Greek food, not Italian, Chinese, English, Mexican, etc. that the others were touting. 

After a seafood and bread with dip entree, we moved onto meat for a change from the previous seafood dinners. Lamb and chicken shish kebabs. Too easy over a few beers and bottle of wine. The day of sun had us weary, and we turned in after dark.

Panoramic view from our guesthouse. 

Pre dinner drinks at the harbour.