Once our plan to travel was known, there have been many questions in regard to exactly where we are planning to go. There are a multitude of ways that one could travel overland from 'Germany to Mongolia', which is the broad description most people have received when asking where we are going on holiday.
To be clear from the outset, we are not necessarily looking for the 'easy route' and are much more interested in taking the 'scenic route'. We are in no particular hurry, other than to remain within in the constraints of the prearranged visas.
The planned route is definitely not a fixed itinerary. There are very few places that have had to be reserved en route, and the path is more of a guide such that we can observe some places of interest along the way. It will be interesting to compare the planned and actual paths upon return.
If all goes to plan, the chosen route will see us visit Germany, Czech Republic, Austria, Switzerland, Lichtenstein, Italy, San Marino, Greece, Turkey, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyz Republic, Kazakhstan and Russia en route back to Mongolia.
Part 1: Stollberg, Germany to Venice, Italy
After flying to Dresden, Germany we plan to take a train to the small town of Stollberg where our car is awaiting us.
Eric Raschpichler of Autohaus Stollberg has been an absolute champion with regard to the sale of the car (few people originally contacted would take our request seriously), and also organising all manner of things such as car modifications, insurance, registration and VAT refund. I can't thank him enough, having all of this organised in advance has certainly saved a lot of stress and allowed more time for tourism.
After collecting the car, and shopping for some camping and other supplies in nearby Chemnitz, we will travel to Karlov Vary (Carlsbad) in the Czech Republic. Famous in the 19th and early 20th centuries as a spa resort town, we'll take the opportunity to enjoy a short Czech experience.
After departing Karlov Vary, we plan to travel to a small town called Neumarkt, where we have found a 'camping megastore' online that should mean we can fully equip ourselves for the remainder of the journey.
Beyond Neumarkt, the plan is to travel via Neuschwanstein castle before testing out the camping equipment for the first time at a campground in Germany adjacent to Lake Constance.
Travelling via Austria, Lichtenstein and and Switzerland the next day, the plan is to experience '5 countries in one day' whilst traveling a route that allows passage through the Munt la Schera tunnel, and descend the Stelvio Pass on he way to a camp site in the Italian Alps.
Continuing to drive through the Italian Alps, we plan to take the scenic route through several national parks and away from the main highways until we reach a campsite above Lake Garda. This time the Stelvio Pass will be ascended... though I'd prefer to be driving it in something a touch more sporty than a Toyota Prado, I'm not complaining.
After spending some time at Lake Garda, the next place in mind is Venice. With the car, staying in Venice isn't too practical, so we plan to stay on the mainland and travel across as few times night and day. Though it would be nice to stay longer, after two nights the cost of Venice will be adding up and it will be time to depart.
Part 2: Venice, Italy to Igoumenitsa, Greece
To get to Igoumenitsa, Greece we will travel down the Adriatic coastline of Italy, camping along the way until taking an overnight ferry from Bari. Gerle is pretty excited about the ferry trip, and I guess so am I, with the ferry resembling somewhat more of a cruise liner than a ro-ro deathtrap that I had been envisaging. With a few hours driving after arriving into Igoumenitsa, a siesta prior to departure is in order to allow time to explore and appreciate the restaurants, bars and casino onboard the ferry.
After leaving Venice, the next planned place to setup camp is near Ancona. There are a number of camping sites to choose from, all with great beach access and facilities. This should be Gerle's first real beach experience, though no doubt we'll stop several times along the journey to 'touch the sand and the water'. Also en route is the small nation of San Marino... we'll detour there and pay for the passport stamps... I can't imagine to many Mongolians (nor Australians for that matter) would have San Marco entry and exit stamped into their passports.
Further down the coast, the last stop before reaching Bari is planned at Gargano National Park which is in a peninsula jutting out into the Adriatic Sea. This looks set to provide some excellent beaches and be a great place to spend some time before heading to Bari for the ferry service, which doesn't depart unit 10.30pm. Not sure what there is to see in Bari yet, but we'll see what we can see in during the afternoon / evening prior to departure.
Part 3: Igoumenitsa, Greece to Istanbul, Turkey
After arriving early in the morning, a short drive is required to what appears to be an idyllic paradise on the island of Lefkada. For a short break from camping, the plan is to stay in a villa near that Apollonioi. From here a couple of days can be spent relaxing in the turquoise Ionian waters, and a few nights enjoying some Greek cuisine.
Reluctantly, I am sure, we will depart the island of Lefkada. The next planned stopover will be at the south western tip of Greece at a place near Methoni. Not sure whether we'll actually stay here, but it certainly looks a scenic place. En route hopefully there will be opportunity to visit the ancient sites of Olympia.
Leaving Methoni, there are a number of places of historical significance that can be visited on the way to Sparta. Again, not sure if we'll actually look to stay in Sparta, but with the flexibility of camping we'll find somewhere suitable.
Travelling to Khalkis, beautiful beaches and a deluxe camping setup await. On the way we can stop at the Corinth canal and any of a number of historical places. With the history of ancient civilisation so deeply imbedded into the Greek landscape, there should be no shortage of places to see. Athens is unlikely to be visited... I guess I'm a bit reluctant to be driving around the busy streets in a 4WD.
Travelling inland from Khalkis, the next stop is planned near Meteora, a UNESCO World Heritage site famed for its Greek Orthodox monasteries perched high on rock formations above the surrounding villages. Hopefully we can visit most of what there is to see on the afternoon that we arrive, allowing time the next day whilst en route to Toroni to spend some time in Thessaloniki. If not, we'll just have to enjoy the beautiful beaches of the Aegean Sea...
After camping seaside at Toroni, a long drive awaits onward to Istanbul, Turkey. Originally we had planned to stop at least once during this section of the journey. However, due to issues with the Turkmenistan visa application we are needing to include Ankara in our itinerary, which wasn't previously. With an early departure, we should be able to cover the distance and arrive in Istanbul prior to sundown, allowing time to explore some of the city that night.
Part 4: Istanbul, Turkey to Sarp, Turkey
Istanbul presents a plethora of site-seeing opportunities, and the time we plan to spend there certainly won't do the city justice. I am sure we will be back at some point in the future (especially with direct flights now to be available from Ulaanbaatar to Istanbul from June 2012 onward) .
The plan is to stay centrally, so that most of the main city sites are within walking distance. With limited time it shall be go-go-go from sunrise until late night. Personally, I've always wanted to visit Istanbul. I guess there is some sort of 'east meets west' mystique about the place, not to mention a seriously colourful history involving many cultures. I'm sure that the sites, sounds, smells, tastes and experiences of Istanbul will be a highlight of the entire trip.
Thought originally planning to spend three nights in Istanbul, due to the required change in plans to incorporate visiting the Embassy of Turkmenistan in Ankara, this will unfortunately be cut to just two. The plan is to depart from Istanbul late in the day after the second night, leaving enough time to travel along the Black Sea coast sufficiently far enough to ensure that the following days journey to the embassy in Ankara can be made before the time window for consular services closes at 12pm. Not really too sure where we'll stop in between Istanbul and Ankara, but there appear to be many beautiful places along the coast where we'll be able to setup tent.
Fingers crossed that all goes well at the Embassy of Turkmenistan in Ankara. Best case is that the visa can be issued within 24hrs (in which case we'll wait for it), otherwise we can be back a week later. Worst case is that we are refused tourist visas... which will be a major headache!
After leaving Ankara, the next planned stop is in Bursa, famous for its rich Ottoman history. A large and modern city, we plan to visit such sites as the Great Mosque and Green Mosque, and look for a genuine Turkish Bath experience.
After Bursa, the plan is to travel to Canakkale and see some of the historical sites around the Dardanelles related to the Gallipoli campaign.
Gerle learned about Gallipoli and what it means to Australians, New Zealanders, French, Canadians and Turks at the Anzac Day service in Ulaanbaatar this year. I'm glad to be avoiding the Anzac Day crowds, and hope to spend some time exploring the Gallipoli peninsular after taking a ferry across the Sea of Marmara from Canakkale to Eceabat.
With a short onward journey from Canakkale, it is likely that we will make a return trip to Anzac Cove the day after arriving at Canakkale before traveling onward to Ayvalik, where there are no real plans other than to relax at the seaside.
Beyond Ayvalik, the plan is to visit Izmir, Selçuk (Ephesus) and Kusadasi on the way to a camp site within the 'Dilek Yarımadası-Büyük Menderes Deltası Milli Parkı' which is on a point jutting out in the Aegean Sea just south of Kusadasi. Pristine white, sandy beaches await!
After a bit of relaxation on the beach, hopefully including some fishing, swimming and sunbathing, the plan is to travel onward to Pamukkale. The meaning of Pamukkale is apparently something like 'Cotton Castle', in reference to the white structures produced by naturally occurring hot spring water with high mineral content, notably calcium. Here we plan to camp, and spend time exploring the Travertines as well as the Roman amphitheater of Hierapolis.
The capability of the of the Embassy of Turkmenistan will dictate the next stop on the planned itinerary. If they are unable to issue the tourist visa within 24 hours, we will return to Ankara and stay overnight to collect it the next day. If we are lucky enough that the visas can be issued within 24 hours, we'll avoid returning to Ankara by traveling onward toward Goreme, and camp overnight nearby Lake Beysehir. Chances are, visa issuance within 24 hours won't be possible.
Fingers crossed, after collecting tourist visas to Turkmenistan, we will continue onward in Turkey to a place called Goreme. This place is famous for the 'fairy castle' landscape, cave dwellings and an abundance of hot air ballooning opportunities. We will indulge in all three, with cave hotel accommodation planned as well as an early morning hot air balloon ride planned for the following morning. En route to Goreme we will have the opportunity to stop at Lake Tuz, which hopefully will be the dry salt flat it is renowned for at the time of our visit.
After our hot air ballon ride (it will be so disappoint if the weather prevents the flight!) a long drive East awaits. Not really too sure what we'll come across during this section of the trip, however the destination is Mount Nemrut, near Adıyaman. This place is famous for the mountain top tomb built in 62 BC by King Antiochus I Theos of Commagene, which includes huge statues of himself, lions, eagles and various Greek, Armenian, and Iranian gods. Sunset and sunrise should be magnificent here.
Soon after sunrise, we will need to depart Mount Nemrut for a long drive to the next planned stopover at the extinct volcanic crater that is named the Nemrut Krateri. Along the way, our planned route will take us past the Cendere Bridge (a 120m long stone arch bridge built by the Romans) and take a ferry across a section of the Atatürk Dam between Güzelsu and Divan.
After taking the ferry from Güzelsu to Divan across the Atatürk Dam, it is fairly long drive to the next planned stopover at the Nemrut Krateri. Likely to arrive late, we'll have time to explore and go hiking the next day as the following days journey to Van is relatively short.
In Van, a town of the same name as the lake that it sits beside, there are a number of historical sites that can be visited important to both Turkish and Armenian culture. Within Lake Van there is an island with upon which there is an Armenian Cathedral of the Holy Cross, a 10th century church and monastic complex.
After exploring an staying overnight at Van, the plan is then to travel back toward the Black Sea coast where transit into Georgia at the Sarp / Sarpi international land border crossing. To break the journey, it is likely that we will camp near a place called Narman, amongst nearby rock formations known as the
Narman Peribacalari.
After some photography of the rock formations in the early dawn light, we will make a quick departure to travel onward to the Sarp / Sarpi border crossing. Here, we should both be issued with tourist visas on arrival into Georgia.
Part 5: Sarpi, Georgia to Baku, Azerbaijan
Upon crossing the border at Sarp / Sarpi, there is only a short way to go to our first overnight stopover in Georgia, which is planned for the seaside resort town of Batumi. Assuming that the border crossing goes smoothly (which hopefully it will given Georgia's apparent openness to all visitors) there should be plenty of time to check out the town and be introduced to some Georgian hospitality for which they are famed.
After a night in Batumi, it is a short journey onward up the Black Sea coast before turning inland to visit two UNESCO World Heritage sites nearby to Kutaisi. These are the Bagrati Church and Gelati Monastery, which we can visit prior to heading to the Shaori Reservoir to setup camp overnight.
The following day we plan to head south to the cave town of Vardzia in the south west of Georgia. Here we'll either camp or find an appropriate hotel or B&B. It is a relatively short drive, which should leave plenty of time to explore the numerous cave sites.
In the morning, after looking around a little more, we will make the journey to Tbilisi where we have found a neat hotel to stay in, within the confines of the Old Town. By all reviews it seems like a really friendly place to stay, and with a wide variety of authentic traditional options to try out with regard to food, wine and wine making. Within the two days we plan to explore Tbilisi, at some point the car will get its 10,000km service at the Tbilsi Toyota dealership, which is already arranged.
Beyond Tbilsi, the remaining night within Georgia is currently unplanned. Travel toward Azerbaijan is the preferred option, to allow us to maximise our time in Azerbaijan with the car (the car can only remain for 72 hours within Azerbaijan after entry, before it must either depart or be confined within the customs bonded yard at the port of departure). Khakhetia is a region in the north east of Georgia famed for its wine making, and this is likely to be our destination. The main centre is Telavi, however we'll just see what we can find. Hopefully there is a nice B&B / Winery prepared to take us in for food, drink and board.
The following day will be our planned entry into Azerbaijan. This should be our first introduction the generally difficult tourism and bureaucracy of the Central Asian countries. Hopefully, having already received our tourist visas, there will not be major issue and / or delay to entry. I have heard that driver and passenger are separated at this border crossing; hopefully all goes well and Gerle and I are reunited on the Azerbaijan side of the crossing!
Once in Azerbaijan, the first destination is a small village called Sheki. This village was once an important stop along the Silk Road, and we plan to visit a Caravanserai from this era. Sheki will be the first place en route where we engage with a home stay organised through CBT (Community Based Tourism).
CBT is a growing trend in developing countries, spawned from the work done by the US Peace Corp. If all goes well, there are several other destinations en route where we will look for similar accommodation and services.
Once we've given Sheki the once over, we plan to continue on toward Baku, but make a small detour into the mountains to visit a small village called Lahij. This village was once a centre for metal work, and there is still apparently a lot of traditional activity underway. The route to Lahij will take us off the main thoroughfare and into a rural area of Azerbaijan. Winding up into the mountains, a large section of this journey will be along a narrow cliffside road. In Lahij we also plan to stay at a home stay organised through CBT. If we have (make) time, other services through CBT such as horse riding and trekking can also be organised.
Bidding farewell to Lahij, we need to high tail it to Baku where we will need to organise to (i) get the car into the customs yard at the port, and (ii) try and figure out when the next ferry sails to Turkmenbashi. There is no schedule, but there are apparently usually departures every 24 to 48 hours, pending weather conditions. Baku is an expensive city... I hope that the ferry is sailing the day after our planned arrival.
In the time that we do have in Baku, there are a couple of historical sites to see, however the mix of oil driven affluence amongst the poorer local conditions should prove Baku as an interesting place of contrasts to visit. Prior to boarding the ferry, we'll need to stock up on food and water for the voyage, reports are that food and accommodation onboard is a little lacking.
Unreal Sam - you've put some serious work into this site mate.
ReplyDeleteCheers
Ben