Day 24: Bursa to Canakkale

Not having had a late night, we woke reasonably early the next day with a plan to do some shopping (having passed numerous markets and factory outlets on our entry to Bursa) before driving the 400 or so kilometres to Canakkale. A little discouraged by the fare to be had at dinner the night before, it was a pleasant surprise to find that breakfast was an absolute smorgasbord of choices between fresh fruit, cereals and yoghurts as well as hot options. 

We ensured to have our fill, and were entertained watching the wide variety of people staying at the hotel breakfast. Turkey is a muslim country, however the hotel seemed to attract a large number of foreign muslim tourist, many of whom appeared to be adhering to muslim rules more strictly than seemed the norm in Turkey. This would explain the women wearing burqas whilst in the women only bath area, and also the eating of breakfast from beneath the veil. If they're closer to their spiritual leader and happy with it, good for them. I'll take my breakfast and bathing more easily!

Getting our money worth at breakfast...

After breakfast we packed quickly and checked out at about 9am. It was a relief to see the car come back with tent intact, after watching it disappear being driven by the valet paring attendant into an underground parking area. With the tyre on top of the tent, I guess that the vehicle is about 2.5m high, and I wasn't sure if the attendant noticed the tyre on top. Before leaving we took a few photos around the hotel, which did certainly look grand amidst lovely green gardens. 

The natural thermal water pool from yesterday. Natural except for the pool chemicals and filtering I guess...

Before the heat of the day arrived in full force, we spent the morning browsing through the streets of central Bursa looking into clothing shops. It was a good deal cheaper than in Istanbul, but with equally as much choice. An ideal choice for finding some more suitable clothing to cope with the Turkish heat and cultural requirements, as well as to find souvenirs and presents for those at home. 

Reluctantly, Gerle agreed around 1pm that it was time to make a move for Canakkale. I'm pretty sure that she would have happily spent all day shopping had there been more time. Anyway, we set off and the exit from Bursa was pretty simple. We travelled on a highway for quite a while, before heading off onto some smaller regional roads. Just prior to leaving the highway, we stopped for fuel. Gerle is a true believer in the energy drink and returned with some sensing I was tired from driving. Bless her concern, but I'm a little worried that too many of these will be the end of me. 

Too much of this stuff will kill you.

After leaving the highway, which I this was due to the GPS taking a shortcut along what it must have thought were more major roads, we entered Turkish countryside properly for the first time in the trip. Around us were many groups of people working in the fields; bent over crops, scything grass by hand, raking and stacking cut grass as well as tending to sheep, goats and cattle. 

We passed through a number of small villages attracting stares from the locals, but didn't stop as we wanted to find somewhere to camp before dark and also go for a swim. Leaving the farmland the road started to twist and turn as it increased in elevation, with natural and plantation forests on either side. Rounding a bend a car was parked and an old man was giving too young guys on a motorbike an earful. We slowed to pass, and then let the old man pass us. Looking back, I don't think that  the two young guys could have cared less about what the old man had to say. I imagine it would have had something to do with riding safely. 

Local traffic

Having fun, just after being scolded by another motorist

Locals between Bursa and Canakkale were outnumbered by Angoras

After peaking at about 1000m above sea level, the road quickly descended down toward the Dardanelles Strait, which we followed south west until we arrived at Canakkale. The drive had actually gone a little more quickly than I had anticipated, and as we had about four hours of daylight left we figured it would be better to organise a ferry across the Dardanelles Strait now, and setup camp on the Gallipoli side so that we better made use of our time tomorrow. 

Having missed the most recent ferry departure by about two minutes, we had about an hour to wait until the next departure. This gave us enough time to quickly walk the streets of downtown Canakkale. Seemingly overrun by Australian tourists (even in what I guess would be the off season), we stopped to get a doner kebab each as a late lunch, and some beers for later on in the evening, hopefully beachside.

Returning to the car just in time to board the ferry, we were lucky not to be late otherwise we would have held up the long queue waiting to embark. The ferry was much larger than expected, but was quickly filled to the brim cars, trucks and buses of both local and foreign registration. I suppose that it is a good shortcut for those travelling from Europe to the western coast of Turkey, avoiding having to navigate through Istanbul and around the Sea of Marmara. 

Onboard the ferry, with an ice cream and cold soft drink in had, we enjoyed the 25 minute ride across the Dardanelles Strait despite the strong sun glare as we tried to admire the scenery. World War 1 memorials were clearly visible in just about all directions, as were more ancient fortifications once used to defend this narrow stretch of water that is the gateway to Istanbul and the Black Sea beyond. 

The view on approach to the coastline leading to Canakkale

Doner Kebap, good for any meal of the day.

Leading from the front.

Kilitbahir Kalesi; one of two fortifications guarding the narrowest point of the Dardenelles Strait.

Across the Dardanelles Strait, from Canakkale to Eceabat

No shortage of customers wanting to avoid a ~500km round trip via Istanbul.

Arriving in Eceabat, we drove the car off the ferry and back onto the European continent. Still needing to get some real food for dinner, we stopped at a small 'corner shop' where everything was to be found. Leaving with fresh bread, fruit, vegetables and cheese we were set for a simple uncooked dinner. Eceabat was far less overrun with tourists than Canakkale and the pace was much slower. The shopkeeper was very friendly, helping us in broken English.  

The western coast of the Gallipoli peninsula was to be explored tomorrow, so we headed in that direction with intentions to either camp at a camping ground if found, or wild camp on the beach. After about 15 minutes driving, and not yet at the beach (on the other side of the peninsula) we came across Kum Camping Hotel. Usually this place only accepts camper vans and rents out caravans and simple bungalows, but they made an exception for us. Toilets, showers and beach access made it ideal. 

After parking the car and before setting up camp, we were quickly down to he beach. On the way we crossed a small stream, complete with a family of ducks and teeming with tortoises. I don't know how the ducks managed to keep their feet when swimming as the tortoises seemed game to bite anything. After feeding this briefly with flowers and grass, we continued to the beach were there were chairs and umbrellas as well as some natural beachfront. The water was calm, and the beach relatively sandy to those that we had previously visited, however only I was keen for a swim. The sun was sinking quickly, and there was a bit of a breeze, so too cold for Gerle. She opted just to get her feet wet paddling near to the shore.

Almost a sandy beach. Sandy, not not the ideal golden / white sandy beach.

A refreshing swim in the Thracian Sea before dinner.

A refreshing ale before dinner.

Magnificent view as the sun set.

Magic!

After swimming about a little, on return to the shore we enjoyed a couple of beers each that we had smuggled down to the water with us, watching until the sunlight disappeared. Before it was too dark, we returned to the car and setup camp via torchlight. A simple dinner of bread, cheese, tomato and cucumber and we were in bed before too long. The kebab from earlier was starting to affect me badly, and I was thankful we were camping at a place with toilets... I was up and down from the tent like a yo-yo until well into the next morning. Dodgy kebabs; destroying intestines the world over since time began!