Bear Trakker: Day 27: Kusadasi to Pamukkale

With not too far to travel today, and plans to visit only one place (the 'Cotton Castle' that is Pamukkale) we woke and breakfasted leisurely, before bidding farewell to our surprised host. The price that he asked wasn't too steep, but without change we ended up paying something a little more substantial than we had anticipated. Not to worry, the place was perfect for what we needed.

Once on the road it wasn't too long until we were on the Autostrada heading toward Denizili. This was now starting to test the GPS guidance, with a number of road changes and roadworks affecting the planned route as the device would have us take. After turning off the main highway well short of our destination, we were a little unsure as to the validity of the directions until we could see in the distance a shimmering white wall that indicated we were indeed headed in the right direction.

The final 10 or 20 kilometres was through irrigated farmland interspersed with small villages, increasingly hosting more and more tourists as we closed on our destination. Initially trying to reach our planned campsite via a private road leading through the Pamakkule enclosure, we worked out how to reach our destination realistically with the help of the gate attendant.

The township below Pamakkule was absolutely teeming with tourists, hawkers and money changers, all of which except the former were disappointed to see us drive straight through and follow the road toward both of the south entrance to the Pamakkule complex and via a fork in the road to our camping site. The camping site was a little difficult to find, and a lot further from the attraction that expected. This was a blessing as it was located on the mountain high above the travertines, where there was a good breeze and the temperature had dropped a few degrees.

The operator of the campsite seemed a little surprised to see us, but was happy for us to stay. The place looked nice, with beautiful green lawns and a great pool, overlooking the lowlands below and across the city of Denizili. We decided to visit the Pamakkule and township below before returning later in the evening to setup camp, it was definitely not walking distance back down the mountainside.

Heading to the southern gate, it was clear that this place was a major tourist attraction. Tens of buses, hundreds of cars, and tourists of every nationality milling about the entry complex. We were a little unsure of weather we would be able to swim in the pools, but as some others seemed to be returning in their swimwear changed before going in.

The path to the top of the fountains was completely exposed to the sun, and lined with white stone ruins of Greek and Roman origin. The heat from the sun and that reflected from the stone was intense, and we quickly moved to the limited shade above the travertines, which were still a little while distance, to recuperate before heading on.

Enjoying the last of the shade

Reaching the travertine terraces, aside from being blindingly bright, the view was fantastic. Crisp and clean white walled pools holding different shades of aqua marine water in which the masses of tourists were paddling. Some of the pools were off limits to tourists (as a result of much exasperation from the security guards holding people at bay), providing views of tranquil and pristine pools not sullied by the silt stirred up by the feet of tourists as the paddled.

Tourists at the top of the travertine terraces

Just another two tourists paddling about in the travertine terraces

Gerle, getting her feet wet inside the terraces

The water was warm, and the calcium rich rocks slippery when wet. Where the water was not running over the rock, it was extremely hot underfoot - almost burning hot - despite the white colour reflecting much of the suns rays. Thankfully, most of the area that tourists were allowed to access was covered with a thin film of water (say less than 5mm deep) ensuring that it was pleasant to walk about so long as you took care to avoid the rougher and sharper sections.

Bright... so bright!

Pools of aqua marine water trapped inside the chalky white terraces

Drip, drip, drip.... dribble... drip, drip, drip, dribble...

Cascading terraces

Like lakes trapped on glaciers?

The water trapped inside is not deep at all.

Another view of the cascading terraces.

After an initial paddle and walk about at the top of the terraces, we took refuge from the burning sun beneath some trees near a cafe where we relaxed and cooled down over some cold water and ice creams, thinking that we had seen all that there was too see, we were about to set-off and go down to the village below when on the spur of the moment we walked a little further around the top of the spectacle away from where most of the tourists were congregated. It was a good thing that we did this, as some nicer and cleaner sections of the terraces were accessible, away from the majority of tourists and security guards.

Here there were better views of the pristine pools below, smoother sections of the travertine rock to walk upon and more water to cool things down further. We took the opportunity to strip off to our swimmers and lie on the warm rock as the cool water rushed past. Gerle used a bit of a initiative in wetting her dress, providing some welcome relief from the heat as we walked back toward the car.

Oh no... overheating...

Sorry world, it had to be done. Cooling down with a quick splash about in the terrace pools.

Just another of the 100's of pictures taken, none of which do the place justice.

Gerle's swimsuit blending in with the travertine pools...

Preparations for the walk back to the car...

Just like air conditioning!

Walking back to the car, we followed the top of the terraces further around than from where we had come originally, where we found that there were more pools almost devoid of tourists. These were accessible only if you were to walk down to the village below, and as we didn't fancy walking back up to collect the car figured that the view from above would suffice. There were also large sections of the terraces that were absent of water, and we could not find anyone who could explain why this was the case given that most of the water was seemingly controlled by a series of taps, valves, channels and locks. Perhaps there was only limited water at this time of year?

The other side of the terraces, with (currently) less water and fewer tourists.

Heading down the village below, we were only really interested in getting some water and beers to relax with back at camp, but this didn't stop nearly every second person we met in the street trying to sell us one thing or another. After finally finding some kind of mini-market, we had what we came for, but relented and opted for a pancake of sorts on the way back to the car.

Thinking it would have been quicker to prepare than it was, we made it clear that we only wanted 'take-away', but were almost forced to sit inside where we were then bombarded by the vendor (and nearby vendors) for other items. Sticking firm, we left with the pancake, which was indeed quite good with spinach, onion and some kind of cheese wrapped inside. It made for a good late lunch.

Making our way back to the campsite, we were surprised to find that they seemed to be setting up for a function of some sort, and that the campground was full of people enjoying the swimming pool and restaurant. It had been empty when we had arrived at about 12pm. Reassured by the owner that it was OK to camp, we drove in onto the lawn as the sole campers... watched by about 50 people! Not to worry, we figured that we'd setup the tent later once the day-visitors had left, and headed for the pool... which was absolutely sensational in the heat.

As the afternoon came to a close and the evening began, it appeared that none of the day-visitors were leaving, and more were arriving. A large table formed in a U-shape had been setup on the lawn, and more and more cars were arriving. It was a dinner function, on a Sunday night. Oh well, no early night tonight we figured, so we just sat by the pool over a few drinks planning to have a late dinner.

By about 8pm we were hungry, and having seen what the locals had been eating asked for the same. It was a mixed grill, in a 'cook it yourself' fashion, that was brought to the table. We had platters of meat and vegetable for cooking, salad and bread, as well as a small charcoal grill delivered. Great concept; it would do well in just about any country with a good climate for sitting outside in the evening (and lax health and safety regulations...).

After the chicken, lamb, beef and cooked vegetables were done, we continued to sit and enjoy the evening weather whilst watching the guests come and go. By about 10.30pm most of the restaurant customers had gone, though the main function on the lawn (adjacent to our campsite) was still in full swing. Figuring that it couldn't continue too much longer, we decided to return to the car and setup the tent. On the way, we asked to pay the bill for the dinner and the camping, but the owner assured us that he would be up early to sort out payment in the morning - at 7am if that was what we wanted (which we did with a long drive ahead the next day).

At the car, we didn't feel like entertaining the dinner party by setting up the tent, so we sat in the car with the seats reclined to snooze for a while until he party ended... some time after 1am, the guests finally departed. The music, singing and talking had made it all but impossible to sleep, so we quickly setup the tent and were asleep almost immediately after they had left.

Waking to the alarm in the morning, certainly not refreshed, we quickly showered and packed up the tent by about 7.15am. True to his word, the owner had been ready for us to depart at 7am, and we found him asleep in the chair at the reception desk. The whole business had been family run, and the only staff we had seen were him, his wife and three early teenage boys, so despite the rough nights sleep were were happy to pay the bill.