Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Days 08 to 09: Muslone (Lago di Garda) to Venice

Leaving Lago di Garda

Up early the next morning ready to make our way to Venice, we set off to follow the coastal road around the southern end of Lago di Garda. As we arrived near to the Sirmione peninsula, jutting into the lake from the southern extremity, we stopped at a small village called Colombare. 

Here in Colombare was a street market which we browsed through for some summer clothing, as the temperature continued to climb. It was 35 degrees Celsius and plenty humid when we returned to the car after iced coffee and frappes to cool down with after shopping. My 'Australian made' (most likely Chinese made, Australian purchased) double pluggers had given out and my purchase was a pair of souvenir pluggers that would hopefully get me through the next few weeks.

Local market in Colombare, Italy

Indulging in an iced coffee

Exploring Venice

The remainder of the journey to Venice was a speedy trip down the Autostrada, and we arrived without too much difficulty locating the camp ground by about 1pm. With no reason to linger, we left the car locked up and the tent down, opting to get return bus tickets across to Venice so that we could take in the sights during the afternoon and evening. 

In the the heat and humidity, the bus ride was pungent... good preparation for the Vaporetti boat services about Venice. Anyway, after arriving at Piazzale Roma, we walked through the small streets of  Venice via Pont di Rialto to Piazza San Marco. Along the way we enjoyed the shady narrow streets, cool breezes through the alleyways and seemingly endless array of street vendors and tourist oriented shops en route. To live in Venice, one must have an absolute passion for customer service!

A typical Venetian scene.


No, you're not dreaming.

Gerle, on the Rialto Bridge.

Sam, on the less glamorous side of the Rialto Bridge.


Stopping briefly at a street food vendor near the Rialto Bridge, Gerle was able to experience fresh coconut for the first time. I guess it is a fairly unique food, in that it is both hard and wet at the same time. Scoping out the souvenirs along the way, trying to determine between the mass produced and unique items, whilst getting a feeling for value, we continued toward Piazza San Marco. 

Arriving into the square, the scale of Basilica di San Marco and the Piazza di San Marco were immediately apparent. Throngs of people were streaming in all direction, amongst squawking seabirds and pigeons (as well as street vendors of all types). 

It was about 4pm in the afternoon, and with a nice light descending on the city we thought it would be good to ascend the bell tower for a good view over Venice and the opportunity for some good photographs. Eight euros and five minutes later, we were standing about 50m above Piazza di San Marco with 360 degree panoramic views of Venice. 

Gerle in front of the Basilica di San Marco

View over Venice from the Campanile (Bell Tower) di San Marco

View of the Basilica di San Gorgio Maggiore from the Campanile di San Marco

Close-up of Piazza San Marco from the Campanile di San Marco

Piazza di San Marco from the Campanile di San Marco

Venetian canal from the Campanile di San Marco

Gerle in front of the Basilica di San Marco 
Down from the tower we walked east along the promenade opposite the Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore before turning inland (?) again to wander the small streets back toward Pont di Rialto and eventually Piazzale Roma to catch our return bus. 

This section of Venice is less visited by tourists, allowing us to see more of daily life and not just touristic mayhem. We stopped at a small supermarket for some water, and then at a canal side cafe to rest our weary feet whilst cooling down with some cold beers. 

A classic Venetian holiday snap, Basilica di San Giorgio Maggiore through the gondolas 
Action in the canal.

A sneaky picture from Gerle of a guy that just amused us... 104 years old and running a digital photography studio. He was a sneaky pervert too, checking out every woman walking past!

Cooling down after walking the streets of Venice


After getting the bus back to the mainland camping ground, we enjoyed a quick swim to cool down, before a quick snack and beers whilst taking advantage of the free Wi-Fi at the camp restaurant. Bed soon after, ready to go again the following day. 


Exploring Murano
On Day 2 in Venice we were up early and ready to explore. After a simple breakfast of fruits and cheese, we again caught the bus across to to Piazzale Roma. This time however, it was straight onto a Vaporetti bound for the island of Murano, famous for the production of the Venetian glassware. If the bus was hot yesterday, this boat was a scorcher... how a moving vessel with (relatively) open deck can't catch a breeze is beyond me. Anyway, after arriving to Murano in a dripping mess, it is safe to say that I won't be returning to live in tropical North Queensland after a few years resident in Mongolia!

After ducking into a few tourist shops for a peek-a-boo and and a chance at some free air conditioning, we made our way to one of the numerous glassware factories on the island offering free demonstrations. Despite Gerle being remonstrated for stepping 'beyond the rope' into a private area which happened to offer some shade, we were allowed into the exhibition after about 10 minutes sweltering in the line under the full blaze of the sun.

Silly us... who would have guessed that going into an exhibition hall containing a furnace could be warmer than standing outside?! After a brief yet informative presentation / demonstration, we were ushered into the 'display' room where there was no subtlety in needing to shop to remain within the air conditioning, or be evicted. With three and four figure Euro price tags on much of the items on display, we were out of there fairly quickly.

Glassware manufacturing in Murano

The glass oven

Working the glass

How do you know the colours you're working with when it is white hot?

Finished products

More finished products... not cheap. 300 Euro (and more) for 2 glass sets; I'll spend my money on what I drink, not what I drink from! Besides, I don't think a single malt would look to manly in either of these...

Finished products for the average tourist.
After leaving the glassware factory, we walked around Murano much as we had in Venice the previous day. Wandering aimlessly through the narrow streets and along canals, we just went into the various shops as they appeared to look at the contents and appreciated the air conditioning. 

We looked at a few menus for some outside cafes, but stopped at one that offered a cooler environment inside. After baulking at the price differential between 'outside' and 'inside' prices, we decided that a light lunch was a better choice and opted for 'starters' only with some cold drinks. After an octopus salad and steamed mussels shared between two, we continued our walk with the wallet considerably lighter. 

Considering to return to Venice, we were fortunate to continue to walk looking for a water taxi in an effort to avoid the Vaporetti 'turkish steam bath' return journey. Rounding a few more corners, we stumbled into one of the numerous glassware vendors to discover a man at work producing unique pieces on request. Gerle took the opportunity to have a necklace made in her name, to which she can add to the piece that she had made similarly of sterling silver in Beijing. 

Canal in Murano

At lunch in Murano, glad to be inside where it was air conditioned and in the shade!

Cooling down with a beer in Murano (after about 30 minutes walking outside of the lunchtime air con!)

Gerle having some jewellery hand made

Keeping an eye on things, offering professional advice...

The finished product
Getting the necklace made was a good omen, and signalled time that we should depart on a good note. Walking back to the ferry terminal, we caught the first boat over to Venice island, where after disembarking at Piazza di San Marco we again hoofed it over the Rialto Bridge and onward to Piazzale Roma to catch the bus back to the campground. 

During our walk we stopped for an early dinner at one of the lane way trattorias, where we enjoyed a simple yet delicious pizza accompanied with a similarly simple yet delicious local bottle of vino. Arriving back to the campground at about 8pm we were fairly quickly to bed, in preparation for the following days drive.

A titanic moment on the ferry back to San Marco

I just liked the sail

Me... not such a fan of Titanic

Leaving Venice, to catch the bus back to the mainland. 



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