Bear Trakker: Day 16: Nydri to Meteora

Having changed our travel plans to spend another day at Lefkada, we had committed to skipping the Peloponnese area to the south. The few days in the sun and salt had been a bit tiring, and Gerle was keen to try somewhere a little cooler and skip the beach for the next few days.

This, in combination with the advice to export the car from the EU from Bulgaria to Turkey and not Greece to Turkey, lead us to decide to skip the eastern coast of northern Greece, and head toward Bulgaria earlier. En route we would still stop as originally planned in Meteora, which would now be our destination for the evening, rather than in another day or two time.

First though, we had seen a sign on the way into Nydri the day previous for some waterfalls, which we now knew the history of in relation to the island of Spartochori. Figuring it wasn't much of a detour, after breakfast of fruit and yogurt in our guest-house, we headed here first. It had warmed up quickly, and the steep ascent put Gerle off, and she decided to remain in the shade down below whilst I walked up to see what was there. As it was early, there were few other tourists, and walking through the surprisingly dense and lush forest was quite pleasant. Despite the heat, there was a enough breeze and shade to keep things comfortable.

Beside the walking track was a small canal that was guiding water for collection to the edge of the forest and beyond. Perhaps this as also used in local agricultural irrigation, but it's primary purpose might once have been of the water collection for Spartochori and other locations. The main stream was only slightly more than a trickle, but there were pools of cool, clear water along the track harbouring many different frogs.

Arriving at the waterfall, it as more than what I was expecting. Though not a torrent of water cascading, it was quite a drop, and very picturesque against the green forest, yellow brown rock and blue sky. The photos don't do it justice without ability to counter the high dynamic range. Not hanging around too long, I was back down to the car quickly and ready to go.

The forest covering the majority of Lefkada.

Walking toward the waterfall.

The waterfall...

Not quite the waterfall I'd come to see, this one is just a trickle.

Thankful he wasn't born in France.

This was the waterfall I'd come to see.

Clean water; no wonder the people came from Spartachori to collect it.

For a sense of scale.

The drive toward Meteora doubled back on some of the drive from Igoumenitsa, but not too much. Again it was really surprising to see that all of the infrastructure was in place, but mostly the toll booths were unmanned. Three lanes in either direction seemed about 1000% overkill for the level of traffic on the road also.

After going past where we had travelled previously, the Autostrada climbed steadily and we reached about 1500m above sea level, passing through several long tunnels to achieve this. Once at this altitude we were up and down on smaller roads off the Autostrada, between 1000m and 1500m, twisting and turning through Greek farmlands.

Getting closer to Meteora there was a distinct change from grain crops and livestock to much more in the way of vegetable and fruit growing. Road side stalls sprang up everywhere selling local stone fruit, melons, grapes and a variety of home made preserves.

Reaching Meteora, we walked around town to get our bearings, not really wanting to go up hiking amongst the Monasteries until things cooled down at little. We had lunch in a shady cafe, after which we searched for an internet cafe, and upon finding one that was very comfortable decided to wait out the heat whilst Facebooking, Blogging and catching up on e-mails and banking. It was worth the wait, as upon leaving the temperature had dropped quite a few degrees.

Heading up the slope, and not really knowing what to expect, we parked the car at the first monastery that we saw. Walking up the steep steps, we reached the gate only to see that it was now closed to the public (after 6pm) and that we wouldn't have been allowed in anyway - we needed to be wearing long sleeves and long trousers. Not a chance!

Anyway, the path continued beyond this monastery and we continued up the slow amongst the trees. Nearing the summit of the hill, we realised that we could have driven to here... Gerle was defiant, but inside I knew that we wasn't that happy to have walked to here. Things improved when at the summit we saw the first plum tree with ripe fruit for our own picking. A short break here, and we were refreshed ready to head out into the sun again and onto the precipice.

The view was superb. Towering columns of rock above lush green forest. Monasteries above, below and on the horizon, farmland and town interspersed below. It was a little hazy, and we were looking into the sun, but it as still stunning. We explored about the top of the precipice for a while, amongst other tourists arriving by bus, before deciding to walk back down to the car and go and find some camping before dark.

One of the monasteries of Meteora, we wouldn't have been allowed inside as we weren't dressed conservatively enough but it was far too hot and humid for long sleeves and trousers!

Another monastery of Meteroa, perched about the previous.

The first monastery above, but from higher up.

Why would you choose to build a monastery atop one of these? Madness!

Suitably kitted out for hiking.

Hiding in the shade.

Township of Meteora far below, the majority hidden behind the rock (right).

Fooling around up top... Gerle not so impressed.

Looking west over the monastery and where we would subsequently find our campsite.

Hehe... A great view... thanks Gerle... xoxo

If these monks brewed beer or something similar, it would have been good here!

We needed have left so early, perhaps distracted by the rock formations and the monasteries whilst driving up, we hadn't noticed the campsite near to the bottom of the ascent. In no time, we were setup, into the pool, and thrilled to escape the heat. Gerle is turning into a mermaid, loving the water she once previously feared.

Having cooled off, showered and hungry, we set off looking for food. Across the road from the campsite / motel, were two old men cooking sausage and shish kebab on an open wood fire. Not realising that they were somehow related to the camping establishment, we wandered over and were immediately offered to try both meats. Yummy. The older of the two men was hilarious, not sure whether he was drunk or just happy, singing and talking to himself whilst cooking away.

Whilst we ate dinner, the sun sank completely. The rock formations transformed through different hues of yellow, pink, orange and red before fading slowly into the night. In the time it took to return to the camp to get a camera, it was all but gone.

In the end we sat down, whilst we were brought bread, salad, beer and then more sausage and lamb, both dripping with tasty goodness. Eating our fill, our hosts continued to bring more to the table, before finishing off with fresh honey dew melon and watermelon. An old lady came to collect money from us, having to consult with the chefs when we asked how much it should be. No menu, no fixed prices. We agreed, conditionally on two extra take-away beers, and left for the camp full and content.